Leonard Miron

A review of a Voyage Jules Verne trip to Cuba

The first time when the Worldwide Journeys brochure arrived at my doorstep I was extremely excited. I read every page, looking at the photos and itineraries and, closing my eyes, I could imagine myself travelling in incredible places under the prestigious label of “Voyage Jules Verne” – named in 2016 the Best Specialist Tour Operator at “The Travel Awards”.

The prices were a little bit over the average price of the market for my favourite destinations but the promises in their brochure of “inspiring tours”, “packed with special touches and little extras” and “expert guides to show you the true character of each destination and take you beyond the norm” won over all my worries created by the less-than-positive reviews on tripadvisor.co.uk, dooyoo.co.uk and beyond. It was then I started to plan a VJV journey. Choosing between a Nile Cruise, a trip to Peru or Cuba, the idea of Fidel and Che’s island was my ultimate choice: “Cuba 5-Star”. The “5 Star” associated with the name of the tour was an important element in my decision.

So here I was, middle of October, with the phone in my hand, ready to book a nice Christmas present for my partner. From that point, Voyage Jules Verne failed in all and every aspects possible. So, make yourself a coffee, sit down and get ready to read the story of a “glossy brochure” travel agent ruining 7 days spent in one of the most beautiful and interesting destinations in the Caribbean.

PRE-TOUR

VJV mention in their brochure and website that their, “expert staff organise every detail so you can book in complete confidence”. Sounds great but it is far from reality.  The gentleman that I spoke with was more interested in reading a long script explaining that VJV doesn’t have any responsibility if Cuba will disappoint me as a destination, than in answering my questions. When I enquired regarding an upgrade to Business Class flights he tried hard to convince me that Premium Economy was better…really?!  I tried to book a post-tour extension in Varadero, but the same gentleman informed me that extensions were not offered for the dates that I wanted to book. Disappointed initially, I was later frustrated when, during the tour, when I discover that 2 other couples booked with VJV a 4 day extension in the beach resort. I can’t stop wondering: is the agent working on commission and employed to bring revenues to the company or was there just to cover for a maternity leave?

The moment the money disappeared from my bank account was the last moment I heard anything about or from Voyage Jules Verne. An email with the confirmation of the booking was sent and after that total silence.  No, I am lying: 2 weeks before the tour I received a second email copy-and-pasted from the first one, with the addition of the date when the tour supposed to start and some vague instructions related to our arrival. He was trying to be “transparent” and advise me to pay only the deposit and after the completion of the transaction he added that “maybe the tour will be cancelled if the minimum number of customers is not reached” but they will let me know. Is just me or was a little bit too late?

While other travel agencies (such as Gate1, Viking, Destinology, ITC) send you a wide range of useful information, timings and details of every day of the tour, VJV was as silent as the remote beaches of Cuba. I contacted them trying to get some information related the daily schedule as I was interested to book and organise some extra tours and evenings in our free time. The agent, a lovely female voice this time, assured me that I didn’t need anything, as I “will be too busy” and “the tour manager” will give me anything I wanted in Havana. Reassuringly, she ended with “no worries, the tour is very good”.

VJV fooled me again. On the positive side, they sent me home a new brochure for 2017 and 2 imitation leather luggage tags. Great deal!

TRANSFER OUTBOUND

As I decided to book my own flights (by the way Air France/KLM have an excellent hard and soft product for both short and long haul), VJV discount £700 from the price of the holiday per guest for the cost of the economy Virgin Atlantic flight and transfers to/from José Martí airport in Havana.  I therefore paid VJV for outbound and inbound private transfers in Havana for £30 return. I knew from my previous trips to Havana that a taxi will be cheaper (around £20 return) but I wanted to save the hassle of running with my luggage in the terminal to find a driver. It’s common to hear about the long waiting time at the luggage carousel at the airport, and even Air France crew mention that in the landing PA. However, we were lucky and the luggage arrived in 20 minutes and all the formalities were smooth and quick. 50 minutes after landing we were landside, in the arrivals area looking for our transfer, as instructed by VJV: “you will be met by our representative (…) holding a Jules Verne sign”. Surprise, Surprise: nobody was waiting for us and I spent 15 minutes reading all funny names from all 5 continents on all boards waved in arrivals. On a positive note, I had 30 minutes’ time for a quick-ish smoke outside while my partner was chasing an agent inside the terminal. Finally, the local representative arrived and with a charming smile informed us that “we arrived earlier and the driver is not here”. After another 15 minutes, a taxi driver appeared we were told that the transfer was ready.  From my experience when other companies offer a paid private transfer the driver assists you with the luggage; being just a taxi driver, ours was having a smoke when we were trying to fit the luggage in the car and ended with one suitcase placed in the front seat.

Before leaving us with the driver, the airport rep gave us the “welcome pack”: an envelope, with some hand-written information about the first meeting containing a welcome letter from Kuoni; a booking form for optional tours with very interesting options but not applicable to our tour; and extensive explanations about how we must score the tour with 9 and 10 which “means we have achieved our goal in making your holiday unique”.

Interesting, I thought, and I blamed the long flight for having some reserves related to the holiday that was about to start. The next day in the morning we and our fellow travellers spent some time trying to locate the meeting point for the Welcome briefing as the handwritten envelope mentioned “main lobby” and guess what? The hotel we had been booked into for the first three nights, Parque Central, has 2 main lobbies in two different buildings. Walking around the hotel I was wondering if Voyage Jules Verne went bust during our 10 hour flight between Paris and Havana and that was the explanation of the total lack of company presence in Havana. Later I understood that in fact Voyage Jules Verne had sold us a Kuoni tour, operated by the national tour operator Cubanacan. So, the motto of the trip according the advice of the Kuoni representative was: “Don’t blame VJV, blame Cuba!”.

THE TOUR

Voyage Jules Verne promises, both in the brochure and website, an “authentic travel with a twist for people who love to see the world” in an “expertly planned and organised” way (https://www.vjv.com/about-us/#difference).  Really? So, how do they explain the glaring differences between the glossy brochure promises and the reality in the field during our “Cuba 5-Star”?  Do we need to “blame Cuba” again?

First of all, nothing was “expertly planned and organised” and the entire tour took place under a cloak secrecy, with our guide revealing the stops, sights, meal times etc., as we were travelling across the country.  This gave me the feeling that the poor driver and guide were creating a tour for VJV on the go, who had forgotten what we paid for.  Although the main points of day by day schedule were respected, there were too many things were missing:

In Havana, after the city tour, nobody remembered that visit to a rum factory and a “Special Event” to sample a cocktail at ‘Hemingway’s Haunt’ had been promised by VJV (https://www.vjv.com/the-americas-tours/cuba/cuba-5star-1/#itinerary). Despite the fact that the company prides itself with VJV Special Events which “enhance the experience of Jules Verne travellers”, arranging “exclusive and memorable special events, illuminating the country and peoples you are visiting”, the scheduled stop to the bar frequented by Ernest Hemingway, “El Floridita”, was replaced with an explanation where to find the place on the map.   Later on in the tour,  in Cienfuegos, the highlighted visit to a cigar factory was also cut without explanations.  Their website does indicate that the visits to both the rum and cigar factories “may be replaced with an alternative visit” but none were offered.

VJV prides itself with a product which “encompasses (…) the conventional and the unexpected, a variety of themes and special interests – all underpinned by quality and value for money” (https://www.vjv.com/about-us/#history) using “knowledgeable local guides”. Let’s put the things straight: our “Cuba 5-Star” didn’t have a tour manager or local guides. For 7 days, a charming young lady tried skilfully to mix up a cocktail of tour manager, escort and guide.  However, although she was local and knowledgeable, her expertise was limited to covering the driving time between A and B with interesting stories, local history and general information about the country. The long list of museums listed by VJV for this tour got just a very quick presentation at the entrance followed by free time.  For instance it was quite frustrating in the Cuban Art Museum in Havana or Trinidad’s City Museum to see how other groups benefitted from a guide’s explanation while we were walking around trying to ready the bilingual inscriptions. If I wanted to do a “guided tour” with a guide book in my hand I would not need Voyage Jules Verne for this A good guide book is infinitely less expensive.

VJV describes itself as a creator of tours which “offer authentic travel with a twist for people who love to see the world”. To be honest in 8 days we spent more time in shops or meal provider’s places (I will not call them restaurants and you will see later why) than in cities we visited: one afternoon free in Havana, 50 minutes in Santa Clara, 10 minutes in Remedios, 30 minutes in Cienfuegos, and a late afternoon in Trinidad. You must be Speedy Gonzalez to have time for a single museum visit in these conditions. On the positive side after this tour – which was more a teaser than a real tour – I decided to go back…this time without Voyage Jules Verne.

Of course, the company will put the blame on the guide. But that charming girl was doing the  job she is paid to do, a classic tour oversold by VJV; even the KUONI rep didn’t know the name of the tour we were in.

ACCOMMODATION

VJV mentions the struggle to organise a trip “allowing for a tour of the island whilst staying in some of Cuba’s best accommodation”. When I enquired, I was told by one of the agents that the “5-star” element of “Cuba 5-star” refers mainly to the accommodation.  This was something I was happy to pay premium price for.

The reality was a little bit different. Imagine that somebody invites you for a ride in a Rolls Royce. Very exciting! But all dreams are brought down to Earth when you realise that for the promised Rolls ride, your reserved seat is in the car boot. That was exactly the situation with our “Cuba 5-Star”

All the hotels during our tour were categorised as five star. But, as you know, each 5 star hotel has its own cheap rooms, borderline 4/5 stars, at reduced prices.  This is exactly where VJV booked us:

• Iberostar Parque Central Havana has two buildings: the 5 star one (with better rooms, more luxurious facilities, free WIFI, better trained staff) called the Colonial wing, and is the place where all the respectable agencies operating 5 star tours accommodate their clients. Even Kuoni have groups there. The other building “Moderno” is more modest in all aspects, a 4 star hotel used by many airlines for their night stops (Virgin Atlantic, Air France, etc.). Speaking Spanish, was easy to communicate with the staff and realise that the two wings are part of two different worlds. Accordingly, the prices are different too. So not a really five star in Havana, VJV.

• Iberostar Ensenachos in Cayo Santa Maria has 5 stars at the entrance, too. But here the differences were more visible. The 5 star part (The Grand Village) is quite far away from the central part and has its own restaurants, beach and facilities. The place where we spent 2 nights was more an all-inclusive trashy, cheap resort like the ones which can be found in the cheaper Spanish costas. It offered a continuous fight for food in the huge, canteen-like buffet area, towels left on sunbeds to reserve the places for families, cheap drinks imitating real cocktails and lame entertainment. On top of that, the rooms for our group were placed in an area used only when the hotel is overbooked and was still under renovation. As we arrived quite late, the room were only partial ready and some facilities associated with a 5 star hotels arrived the following day. The description of the hotel in VJV brochure and website with “a wide choice of restaurants” (https://www.vjv.com/the-americas-tours/cuba/cuba-5star-1/#accommodation) was not at all accurate due to the fact that only the buffet was included. If you wanted to book an “a la carte” restaurant they were not available for a 2-night stay and “The Colonial” restaurant, which was close to the idea of a 5 star, was available for a 25CUC fee.  Having being made to eat the buffet in our first night, we paid for eat there for the second and it was worth it for decent food and service.

• Iberostar Grand Hotel Trinidad was the only hotel in this trip close to the idea of a 5 star. Friendly and efficient service, high standard facilities and a perfect location. Of course, that’s my opinion, but some of my fellow traveller weren’t so happy with the hotel. We were lucky enough to get a room with a beautiful terrace looking over the square and beautiful views of a magnificent sunset and sunrise. Others got a room just with a window and some of the rooms were looking over the street behind the hotel. I don’t think that is fair to pay the same amount of money and get different rooms, especially when at the reception the displayed price indicated the different grades – and prices – of the accommodations available.

FOOD

If you are not adventurous enough to find your own alternatives, VJV’s “Cuba 5-Star” will leave you with the feeling that Cuban’s cuisine is a total disaster with poor quality ingredients and boring recipes. This is not at all the truth. Cuban’s cuisine is based on fresh ingredients, following the main trend of the Caribbean cooking style but with a very interesting infusion of Spanish, African and Continental touches. However, to discover the real Cuban cooking you need to walk away from the included lunches and dinner that VJV offers in the tour.

According to the VJV website, the tour has all breakfast included, 3 lunches and 3 dinners. If I ignore the morning in Cayo Santa Maria where the breakfast reminds me of a buffet in a cheap Spanish summer resort, in Havana and Trinidad the hotels provided an excellent breakfast with the expected fusion between a traditional breakfast (omelettes, sausages, cheese, cereals) and local cuisine (churros, friend bananas and amazing fresh tropical fruits.

Why do you need to include poor quality and cheap meals when is better to stay safe and just recommend a range of available restaurants? Thankfully we had internet access and we found via TripAdvisor excellent restaurants which provided a very different image of Cuban cuisine.: Habana 61 and Al Carbon in Havana , Santa Clara Libre in Santa Clara, La Redaccion in Trinidad.

SAFETY & COMFORT

This are two capital components of the “duty of care” regardless if you travel by air, on water or on land. In my more than 25 years’ experience travelling around the world, I realised that every company, no matter how strong or weak is their product, places the safety and comfort of their guests on a priority list.  However, on my “Cuba 5-Star” trip, Voyage Jules Verne, being so divorced from the end product, lost somehow the control of these two elements.

When you target a market of 50+ customers and you design a tour with long drives across Cuba (4-5 hours) maybe will be a good idea to provide a coach with facilities which will cover the need for “technical stops”. This is especially important in a country where the toilet breaks are made only in places approved by the tour operator. During our trips in Cuba, some of them with 4-5 hours’ drive, we had only one stop/sector in places owned by Cubanacan. These were absolutely fine places, efficient service and adequate facilities but sometimes your bladder doesn’t agree with the beauty of landscape or the rules of the contract.  Since our minibus, despite being very comfortable, didn’t have a toilet, you can imagine the rush and the queue on every stop every day. We saw on our travels smaller groups in bigger coaches with the mentioned facilities. I can understand the idea of cutting costs but when the comfort and the idea of duty of care are ignored I can’t associate this with a 5-star tour.

The scariest experience was for far in Cayo Santa Maria. To cut the story short I was verbally abused by a “merry guest”, a habitué of the establishment for an entire evening.  Despite the front desk, the night shift manager and security guards being informed and observing this happening, they did very little to assist.  . The next morning, the verbal and physical assault continued, again in front of the staff who found the situation “funny” making comments in Spanish without knowing that, unfortunately, I also speak the language.  More frightening was finding out that the “gentleman” knew exactly the time when we supposed to be leaving the hotel and he “woke up so early” to meet us again as “planned”. The verbal and physical abuse continued on the same racist and homophobic lines, under the amused faces of the front desk and security personnel. I am a big adult and I can cope with any type of behaviour but, what really worried me was how a sensitive information, like our departure time, leaked from the Front Desk to a private guest,  in particular given his violent behaviour the night before. Has anybody heard about data protection in that hotel? What else did the kind receptionists say about us? I cannot blame the aggressive guest – it was probably the poor-quality free drinks or the low standards of this “5 star all-inclusive resort”. I cannot blame the reception or security for not doing their jobs  -that’s a management issue. But I cannot stop asking myself where was the “duty of care” of VJV when they decided to place guests in that hotel.  Is again “cost efficiency” against “quality customer service”?

POST-TOUR

On our arrival, I received a quaint quality questionnaire from Voyage Jules Verne. Very basic questions proving again that is no interest in finding what guests find the company excels and what is clearly not working with their products.  I have filled in so many questionnaires in my lifetime for airlines, hotels, cruise ships, tour operators, yet never have I seen something so basic until now.  More than a genuine interest in guests’ experiences, it’s more a box-ticking exercise and pretending that they have some “post-tour” contact with their guests.  Nevertheless, after my messages on social media I got a phone call from the VJV office to learn more about what had gone wrong on my holiday.  The official answer from the office was the ultimate sock. To my attempts of offering a constructive feedback related to the tour, the answer was blunt if not quite rude: “…there are a number of aspects on which I feel I could challenge you…”

BOTTOM LINE

Voyage Jules Verne is so divorced from the end product that is very difficult for me to match the online/printed promises with the reality of my “Cuba 5-Star”.  It was incredibly frustrating to realise after 8 days and more than a few thousand pounds later,  that one of the reviews on VJV services was right: “just another brochure tour operator”.

One of the main rules of any hotelier, which can be applied here, is that  it is more expensive and far more difficult to get new customer through your door than keeping the existing ones in.  In our group, from 16 travellers, one was a repeater with 15 first timers. It’s hardly surprising that more than 80% of the first timers will not come back to VJV. It sounds to me like a dreadful waste of money and energy in putting together, printing and sending an excellent brochure and after that losing almost everything due to the poor service quality and disjunction between promises and reality.

I know that is nobody to blame but me. I was the one excited about the trip, I was the one booking and spending the money. But maybe somebody in the VJV office will realise how much you can lose if you overpromise and underdeliver. Maybe I am not their target market but before the trip to Cuba I was lining up another 3 trips with them, first one in May on the Nile, one in South America and the “palace on wheels” in India. That’s a lot of future bookings for any travel agent, coming from a market sector who invest more in holiday than the rest.

Going back to the VJV questionnaire when I was asked if I would recommend them the answer was clearly no. I don’t want anybody to experience the frustration of realising the difference between the printed/online materials and the real tour. It’s sad that after a week, in an amazing country like Cuba, the only memories that deserved to be shared with friends and family are the excellent flights both ways and the meals, drinks and excursions that we planned and did independently.  In the official answer VJV replayed to my comments with an incredible sentence: “As I said, I do not agree with some of your sentiments…” Really? A serious customer service provider knows that the feed-back is a gift and you always say “thank you”.

When I was asked if I would book with VJV in the future, the answer was easy: NO. The resolution of VJV was the perfect reason to don’t book again: “we would like to offer you a 5% discount from any of our tours and this offer would have a two-year validity”. Really? Did VJV ever heard about the fact that in customer recovery never ever assume customer needs. That’s a very poor customer retention strategy. Was easier and cheaper if they were ready to accept the feedback, stop blaming the locals and change something in the future to make the trip a real 5-Star Cuba.

I still keep the brochure on my desk which is a bad sign. However, on a positive side, other offers, magazines and brochures arrive daily at home and Voyage Jules Verne is going lower and lower in my “to do in 2017” pile.

Posted in TRAVELER'S NOTES

This year in January I spent one week in Cuba travelling across the island and discovering again a beautiful destination where I always love to go back. The tour organised by Voyage Jules Verne used for all our stays hotels from the Spanish chain IBEROSTAR, all rated 5 star. To be clear from the beginning: if I will take care of my own bookings I would never chose Iberostar for my accommodation,  in Cuba nor anywhere in Europe. Just because “budget hotels”, even the high end ones are not my cup of tea.  The chain has the reputation of mass produced tourism style services and my previous experience in hotels and resorts proved the point the most of the time the stars associated with different establishments were given after a very “generous” assessment. And in Cuba the story was not very different than in Europe.

HAVANA – Iberostar Parque Central

On my previous trips to Havana I used Parque Central because it’s excellent location. You are minutes from the vibrant Havana Vieja and in no time, you discover yourself absorbed by the vibes of Obispo street. The hotel is still no. 1 according to the ratings and the service style didn’t change to much in the last 5 years.

Before I used the colonial part of the hotel, facing the Central Park, but, this time I had my accommodation in the new wing The Tower (El Torre). Is linked to the old building with an interesting underground passage reminding you with photos and artefacts about the history of Cuba.

Even if the entire complex is rated 5 star be aware that between the colonial part and the tower are couple of differences which made the new building more a 4 star hotel. At the end of the day airline crew stay there and, taking in the account the cost awareness in airline industry I don’t know any airline placing their staff in a 5 star hotel.

The tower has its own reception and concierge so, if you are staying here don’t attempt to use the colonial services…you will be send back to your 4-star world. But in the tower, both the Reception and Concierge are very polite and helpful. And if you add a tip in your first day you can assure for yourself a nice smooth stay with guaranteed taxi and restaurant bookings.

During my stay, I have a room at the 8^th floor which had a little inconvenience. The hotel has 3 elevators and most all the time only one was working so be aware of waiting time and be open to start friendly conversation with others using the one and only elevator in the building. Can be quite useful for tips about the city.

The room and the bathroom are quite big with generous space but again the size, the amenities and the furniture are more 4 stars than 5. Maybe the only 5-star touch was the spot-on cleanness of the room.

On top of the Tower I found a nice, decent size pool with a bar and a restaurant, not so glam like in the colonial part but still a pleasant place for a Mojito in the afternoon. Time to time the restaurant was offering dinner and special events and one night I enjoyed the Cuban National Cameral Orchestra during a special dinner.

Of course, you can spend a lot of time in the colonial part of Parque Central where the lobby is buzzing with action and live music, the food and the cocktails are pretty good, the service is great and the prices reasonable. Such a pity that The Tower didn’t offer the same atmosphere; the only thing that you could do in the lobby was people watching: tourist waiting on top of their suitcase for the transfer or flight attendants checking in or out.

The breakfast was outstanding with great choice (a mixture between European, English and local dishes), lots of fresh fruits and juices (the Cucumber juice was amazing) and a service in line with any high-class traveller. Of course, you can chose to have breakfast in the colonial building, but here in the tower was a little bit more cosy and intimate with quicker and better service. Perfect experience to start your day.

Both Front Desk and Concierge were very helpful and well trained. You can exchange money at the reception if you need more CUC any time of the day (the office located in the colonial part of the hotel have opening times not very accommodating for the tourists) and the Concierge can book for you any tours taxis or restaurant. One evening trying to find a last-minute table in a restaurant, Eddy the Concierge, recommended us an excellent place. Was very honest both about the prices and menu and actually he advises us to walk instead of taking a taxi as the restaurant was very close. That’s what I call an excellent Concierge.

Bottom line the Torre Parque Central is in reality a 4 star hotel but with good accommodation and services. Of course if they will try to bring some live in the premises for sure will be as popular as the Main Lobby in the colonial wing of the hotel.

TRINIDAD -Iberostar Grand Hotel

IBEROSTAR Grand Hotel Trinidad is indeed the door to a world of maximum comfort in the centre of Trinidad. Is actually an adults-only hotel (guests cannot be under 15 years old), hosted in one of the most impressive properties on the island.

Located in Plaza Carillo the hotel is just a walking distance from extraordinary restaurants, vibrant places full of live music and famous Plaza Major with its impressive cathedral and an open-air Casa de la Musica.

The IBEROSTAR Grand Hotel Trinidad include 4 junior suites, 18 double rooms and 18 doubles with a balcony being closer to a boutique hotel them the mass-produced tourism promoted in Cuba by the Iberostar chain. The perfect choice for a fantastic, relaxing stay.

I had a double room with balcony on the first floor and I regretted that I spent only one night here. Drawing inspiration from traditional colonial architecture, the entire hotel brings guests back to sixteenth-century Cuba. The room (#108) was divided into four distinct areas: hall and walk-in closet, private bathroom, large bedroom, and terrace. Add to this an iPod dock and radio alarm clock, pillows à-la-carte, free Wi-Fi (30 minutes) to get the image of the perfect stay.

The terrace was quite large offering lovely views of Parque Céspedes a place always buzzing with music and Cuban spirit. Despite of the fact that the square and the park were always busy the isolation of the room give you the chance of a perfect sleep.

The breakfast served in a very elegant and understated restaurant was a real gastronomic celebration mixing in a smooth way Continental, Spanish, English, American dishes with a twist of Cuban cuisine. Impeccable service and you risk to spend more than accepted time here…it was amazing.

The best asset of the hotel is without doubt the staff. The reception was very efficient and very polite at check in, being helpful and friendly for our entire stay. When we asked the reception about a restaurant where we wanted to have dinner the lovely lady on duty provide us with a map, marking the shortest way and even she offered to call the restaurant to check availability. When we left the hotel for dinner the doorman offered to come with us to be sure that we will take the right turn behind the hotel and we will not get lost.

One little warning: when at the bar or in the lobby watch out for the magician – he is very good but knows new guests and targets them to buy his special box or send you to a not very good restaurant where he will get something in exchange.

I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend this hotel-it is one of the best in Cuba and the staff couldn’t be friendlier and nothing was too much trouble.

CAYO SANTA MARIA – Iberostar Ensenachos

The hotel has, indeed, a 5 stars’ plaque at the entrance but the reality is a little bit different. The resort is divided in 3 different sections and only The Village can be clearly associated with a 5 star hotel.

The frustrating thing about our stay there is the huge difference between the hard and the soft product of Iberostar Ensenachos.

The original building was planned to be a real 5-star resort. The gardens are amazing, the access to the beach is spectacular and the beach itself is what you expect from an idyllic Caribbean white sand beach. The room are big, with a lot of space and a nice terrace. Even the public areas rich a kind of opulence and luxury expected for a high-class hotel. But the similarities with other 5 star hotels stop here.

My accommodation was in the Spa section in a building still under renovation so from the big terrace I have lovely view of scaffolds and construction sites. The room amenities associated with 5 stars were missing in the first night and the next they when you got your slippers and bathrobes you realised how many groups of “all-inclusive fans” used them.

The room was clean at a superficial level with a lot of dirt in the corners, under the beds. In the second day, we realised how the cleaning was going on: buckets of water on the floor and after that the door was left wide open, with nobody around, to dry. Safety and security rules, no way! Anybody can enter the room and pick up whatever they fancy because was nobody around!

The food was typical for a 3-star all-inclusive resort anywhere in Spain, Turkey or Greece. Mass produced, with meals looking more like a bunfight in a cheap summer camp than an enjoyable moment. Even the cocktails were the victims of “all-inclusive” cocktails: powder from a can, something coloured made in a plastic bucket and a lot of cheap white rum.

Another “included” surprise: HOUSEFLIES! There were everywhere there was food, in the buffets, at the beach, any food places. They were also in the lobby anywhere sweet drinks were served! Dead flies in food so as the week went on my appetite got less and less. Flies come from maggots which comes from garbage! It is a major health issue to have flies walking all over the food.

Striking was the level of customer service. At Iberostar Ensenachos as higher you are in the hotel’s hierarchy as rude you must be. The lower grade staff in bars and restaurant smile all the time, work hard offering a decent service. The reception and the management is appalling with no customer skills and no wish to do something in line with a 5 start hotel requirements.

The most concerning aspect of this hotel is safety and security. We witnessed in two different days quite violent conflicts between guests and both the reception staff and the security guards were watching the scenes having a lot of fun and without interfering. Quite terrifying!

The general excuse “what you expect, is Cuba!” doesn’t work here. We meet a couple staying in the posh part “The Village” and cleaning and service was completely different. Something like borderline 4/5 star. Another night we paid and book a table in The Colonial restaurant and the quality of the meal and the service was very good. So, it is possible!

Iberostar Ensenachos is far from a 5 star resort. Cuba have 5 star establishments, both hotels and resorts, but Iberostar Ensenachos is nothing more than a cheap all-inclusive holiday resort over-marketed as an exclusive place to be. If you like a resort in Benidorm, Bodrum or Paphos  Iberostar Ensenachos is your place. At the end of the day nothing is exotic apart of the location and don’t forget that for budget holidaymakers from Canada, Cuba is the same like Cyprus for British or Bali for Australians.

Iberostar Ensenachos is not at all an exclusive 5 star holiday is an all-inclusive mediocre resort tailored for budget holiday maker.

I will not recommend it to those who look for a real 5 star experience in Cuba. And for sure I will not come back…at the end of the day everybody has his/her own standards and expectations.

Posted in TRAVELER'S NOTES

 A NIGHT AT TROPICANA

The beautiful Cuban capital is finally coming in from the cold isolation, state controls loosen and a wave of optimism and creativity is unleashed. And you can catch this vibe day and night in Havana…especially night time. The Revolution may have curbed the debauched excesses of the Fabulous Fifties, but Havana’s brand of rum-fuelled hedonism still lures mega stars and tourists to its vibrant clubs and bars. La Habana Vieja is brimming with bars, tango houses and cultural centres. The main strip of Calle Obispo is the place to begin an old town bar hop, where a seductive musical soundtrack and spontaneous street side grooving provides some of the city’s best free entertainment. As the bars, close at midnight, the clubs get into full swing, continuing until the early hours. Havana moves to the sound of a musical score. She sways, flirts, ruffles and twirls to notes that have been cooked with Bantu beats, Spanish strings, reggae thumps and melancholic love songs. It’s all about the music – and the rum. The minty mojito and the chilled daiquiri were created in Cuba and sparkling cocktails or light Cristal and dark Bucanero beer can be found in her drinking dens, speakeasy-style bars, salsa venues, hip haunts and open-air patios.

Only one spot in the town manage, since 1939 to keep the same aura of glamour and decadence, ignoring completely the political or social tornadoes shaking the country and its capital. Its marketing slogan as a ‘paradise under the stars’ is no hyperbole: the outdoor, tropical setting of the world-famous cabaret is the perfect stage for an art extravaganza to multiply the Cuban happiness of a true tropical night.

WELCOME TO TROPICANA! IT’S SHOW TIME!

Tropicana’s history is as fascinating as its own show.

Once the lush gardens were the property of Guillermina Pérez Chaumont, known as Mina, a Havana socialite. She decided to sell it to an entrepreneur in 1939 who dreamed of opening a 300-person capacity night club. The socialite put one condition on the sale: the new owner had to maintain as many trees, shrubs, and plantings as possible. This historic detail is part of what makes Tropicana so special – the setting is wonderfully lush, with royal palms, mango and cedar trees surrounding the entire club.

Originally known as El Beau Site, de Correa decided to rename the club Tropicana, because of its tropical atmosphere and “na” after the last syllable of the original owner, Mina. With a fanfare from the Alfredo Brito Orchestra, the Club Tropicana, opened on December 30, 1939. In 1950 Martín Fox, a burly, gregarious and well-connected gambler took over the place and this is when Tropicana’s glory years really began. Construction continued through 1951. Giant fruit trees were left in situ during construction to punctuate the interior. When the cabaret was re-opened on March 15, 1952, it had a combined total seating capacity of 1,700 for the interior and outside areas with furniture designed by Charles Eames.

But it was the arrival in Havana in 1946 of Floridian mobster Santo “Louie Santos” Trafficante Jr. that would alter the future of The Tropicana. Within a few years, Trafficante owned The Tropicana. The club served drinks and meals which just about covered the operating costs. It was suspected that he also had behind-the-scenes interests in other syndicate owned Cuban gambling casinos.

Martín Fox

Santo “Louie Santos” Trafficante Jr

The list of celebrities who have graced Tropicana’s stage is long and illustrious: Nat King Cole, Josephine Baker, Libertad Lamarque, Cheo Feliciano, Rita Montaner, Elena Burke and Bola de Nieve all performed under the stars here back in the day. The showgirls at the Tropicana, known collectively as “Las Diosas de Carne” (or “Flesh Goddesses”), were renowned the world over for their voluptuousness, and the cabaret showcased a kind of sequin-and-feather musical theater that would be copied in Paris, New York, and Las Vegas

The Cuban Revolution was to have serious repercussions for the mob’s involvement in Cuba. As early as December 31, 1956, a bomb exploded at The Tropicana. Set by communist rebels, the explosion was contained to the bar area and one woman lost an arm. The new Cuban president, Manuel Urrutia Lleó closed the casinos and nationalized all the casino and hotel properties

In 1992, the American Academy of Restaurant Industry honoured Tropicana as the best cabaret in the Americas, awarding it the “Best of the Best Five Star Diamond.” It was singled out for its quality and rich history, with which it has been staging performances for over half a century.

The Tropicana continues to operate to this day, attracting tourists to its Cabaret Shows taking place at 10pm, Tuesday to Sunday, in the open-air Salon Bajo Las Estrellas.  Couple of tips if you want to experience a night at Tropicana:

• Book on line or as soon as you arrive in Havana. If you hope that you will get a table at your arrival, without pre-booking forget it. Best case scenario you seats will be somewhere when you can only hear the music.
• Arrive at Tropicana earlier; the show starts at 10PM but the best idea is to be there around 9.15PM. Even if you have an expensive ticket, the Maitre D’ will place you at the worst table for the price that you paid. Therefore, couple of minutes of negotiation, couple of notes discretely place in his hand (maximum 10-15CUC) and couple of smiles will make him to move you to a better place. I did that and it worked! And is quite nice to be early as a cameral orchestra is playing for 60 minutes light classical music.
• When you buy a ticket, you have different options with different prices. I will not recommend to have dinner there; the service is mediocre and the food didn’t look amazing. Just go for the show. The different prices are linked to the table position and the type of drinks included
• At the entrance, everybody receives a little present: a cigar for gentlemen and flowers for ladies. Don’t’ expect a Cohiba but if you don’t like cigars the one offered can be one of the presents for your return home.
• The ticket includes a glass with sparkling wine, some nibbles and a ¼ l of Havana Club and coke per person, which is more than enough. You can order some extra cocktails (the Mojitos are surprisingly decent) and the prices are not much higher than in the town.
• Don’t expect a courteous service or amazing customer service after you enter Tropicana. Everybody there possess a “rich clients” radar and if you are not keen to leave a tip at the end you will not get too many smiles. But the service is efficient and hassle free.
• If you need a “technical break” for the next hour do it before the show or just before the end, The toilets are quite far and the queues are longer than the show girls legs

  At the end of the day you are there for the show. And is AMAZING! Almost 2 hours of nonstop dancing, live music, fabulous costumes and colours, excellent choreography and sensuality. A cocktail of iconic Cuban rhythms, mixed with rumba, mambo, danzonete and even Latin jazz, it’s accompanied by the hot choreography Tropicana is famous for. Breathtaking!

  The headliners are all fantastic but one. For me is still a mystery the inclusion in a night packed with high quality live acts of the Cuban version of IL DIVO. Actually was more than that or, worse than that: 5 male and 2 females singers killing evergreens and opera arias gave me the feeling that they enter the wrong stage. That was not Tropicana. Not necessary because of their voices (karaoke style) or the stage presence (inexistent) but was 100% playback. When the entire show was live and high quality the local Volo (the original band won San Remo in 2015) were lip-syncing quite badly. You couldn’t miss the audience reaction when the 7 singers sounded like Royal Opera cast singing the famous Brindisi from Traviata. But, is Cuba, and you don’t know who’s related with whom!

  After the show, if you are not very tired, a musical interlude (quite weird, something like a bad Britain got talent act) started the after-show party. Great MC bringing everybody from the audience on stage and excellent music. You can dance the night away until 1.30-2.00AM with no problems. And the advantage is that most of the tourist will be gone by that time and will be easy to find your way around and even to call a taxi to take you back home.

  Tropicana was at the pinnacle of high society in Cuba before 1959. It was the very best. But the existence of such a place has never been discordant with the revolution. And that explains why it has kept its doors open. Tropicana is the same as it has always been. The show can no longer be changed every two months, but it always fills up to capacity. There is no casino now, and Santo Trafficante is gone, but it still has the same spectacular shows and the same lush jungle. The story of Tropicana is a story like any other, composed of light and shadows, luz y sombras.

  “In the beginning, before God created Cuba, the earth was chaos, empty of form and without music. The spirit of God stirred over the dark tropical waters and God said, “Let there be music.” And a soft conga began a one-two beat in the background of the chaos” wrote Richard Blanco.

  https://youtu.be/m8KJ5EgTY3A

Posted in TRAVELER'S NOTES

The crossroad of opulence, colonial memories and misfortune

There are many reasons why Cienfuegos in Cuba, has become one of the most outstanding regions of the country dating back to the 19th century, and this is mostly due to the historical and patrimonial legacy that today are merged into the heritage of a full-of-history city. Cienfuegos literally translates to “one hundred fires” but is dubbed La Perla del Sur (Pearl of the South). And for sure that the jewel of Cienfuegos is the overwhelming architectural exercise of Palacio De Valle.

The land was purchased by the dealer Don Acisclo del Valle, owner of several sugar cane plantations. When Acisclo Valle began to build its mansion in 1913, he could hardly imagine that the facility would eventually become a symbol of the Pearl of the South. The palace is located in the area of La Punta, National Monument of Cultural Heritage.

The terrain is located in Punta Gorda neighbourhood and was a wedding gift from Amparo Suero’s father, when she married Acisclo, a wealthy businessman. Rumour has it that the couple was on a trip to Spain when they decided to build a unique chalet.

The construction began in 1913 and the work was entrusted to Italian architect Alfredo Colli and foreman Juan Suarez and ended in 1917, costing a million and half pesos. It is Gothic influences, Romanesque, Baroque and Italianate combined with the Mudejar style, in vogue in Spain in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, which make the building a architectural gem. It is assumed that craftsmen involved in this work were experts of different nationalities for each specialty.

The Spanish carver Antonio Barcenas made the gateway to the garden. The Frank Palacios from Cienfuegos created bronze railing of the staircase, the shields and ornaments of the front and all hardware. The painter Miguel Lamoglia decorated carved wood imitating the office of master of the house and painted the beautiful crystals allegories of Carrara marble staircase.

All materials were imported: Carrara marble, Italian alabaster, Venetian ceramics, ironwork and forgings from Granada, mosaics and glass made in Talavera  and European hardwood mahogany. In the interior decorations of the building, there are inscriptions that indicate the nationality of the artisans involved in its construction like this: “Lag log ila illegible,” a phrase from the Koran which means “Only God is God.”

The central plant is quite amazing. It is flanked by 2 sphinxes from Egyptian tales, with head and breast of a woman and body and paws of a lion that personify the sun. However, some people assume that this was not supposed to be the main entrance. Yet, its proximity to the marble stairway that leads to the second floor made it so.

The entrance is primitive Gothic style and leads to a dining room of Mudejar influence, which imitates the famous Patio of the Lions, of Alhambra, in Granada. Then comes the music and games room, of Luis XV style, and the foyer of Imperial style, with golden friezes, rosy marble baseboards, brass applications and white marble floor. The second floor has 8 bedrooms, plus living and study rooms. Behind the staircase can be found the kitchen with pantry. On the staircase giving access to private rooms, is a bevelled mirror, a jewel of art, where you can see coloured crystals transparent to the end of the afternoon, the sun’s rays, which illuminate a path where observed lowering of “Three Kings”

Vases of Italian and Chinese porcelain are scattered all over the palace. They evidence the opulence of bourgeois times in Cuba and a kind of construction that imitates foreign styles. They show us how Acisclo del Valle let his money and imagination drift freely. The owner’s initials are criss crossed into an artistic monogram in the ceramic floor.

The building ends in 3 towers: Gothic Roman, Indian and a mignonette of Arab style are crowning the roof with breathtaking views of Cienfuegos bay. The first symbolizes strength, love the second and third, religion as an institution.

The family didn’t enjoy too much this lavish sumptuous residence.  Couple of months after the inauguration the price of sugar dropped, the market collapsed and facing the pressure of a financial disaster Acisclo died in Cienfuegos at 4:00 PM on December 26, 1919, at age 54, as a result of a heart attack. In 1922 his widow decided to abandon the palace, return forever to Spain and transfer the mortal remains to his natal Arriondas, where they rest forever in the family pantheon.

Palacio de Valle became the Hunters’ Club for some time. In the 1950’s, an investment company bought the land on which stands the palace and Batista planned to convert this colourful riot of tiles, turrets and stucco into a casino. The Castro’s Revolution triumphed and the new authorities opened an Art School there. Today the Palacio de Valle is one of the symbols of Cienfuegos by architectural and historical values being one of Cienfuegos’s main attractions and hosting a restaurant dedicated to all lovers of art and Cuban cuisine. Among its many uses in recent decades, it served as a press centre for the Fourth Summit of Petrocaribe, a regional energy integration body, held here in late December 2007.

And at dusk, as I witnessed incredible tones of red and oranges over the sea,  the waves that bathe the bay stop to tell the stories about nostalgia and memories of the Palacio de Valle.

Posted in TRAVELER'S NOTES

TRENDY VIBES IN OLD HAVANA – Restaurant HABANA61 

A night spent in Habana 61, the charming restaurant located in the northern part of Havana Vieja near El Museo de La Revolucion and Santo Angel Church, not very far from Plaza 13 de Marzo, is more than a dinner out. Is like being teleported in a very trendy restaurant in the famous area of Chueca in Madrid. But this is just because of deco and service style. When you open the menu, you realise that you didn’t leave Cuba at all.

The restaurant has an intimate atmosphere, only 10-12 tables with a decor very modern with a trendy vibe, it is the contrast of old Havana with clean and elegant interior. The restaurant is very popular and gets very busy after 8.00PM, therefore to book a table in advance is a great idea. Of course, you can walk in and wait at the bar and enjoying one of their great cocktails, hoping that your table will be available before you get too marry on their excellent Mojitos.

A very good sign is the menu: not very big and not very sophisticated granted the fact that everything is fresh and cooked on the spot. Even if you get lost in mouth-watering choices, the staff is there to give guide you in a nice contemporaneous culinary journey. Simple like that: Havana 61 proposes the enjoyment of traditional Cuban cuisine enhanced with contemporary ideas.

After the mandatory Mojitos we opted to share an Octopus Carpaccio and Fried Malanga. Malanga is a the root of a plant known for both its ornamental value, commonly known in the garden world as “elephant ear.”  Very high in fibre and calories “Frituras de Malanga” was absolutely delicious: crispy and tasty was served with “miel de ajo” a combination of honey and garlic which match with its fusion of flavours the texture of the fried root. I was ready to order another one when the charming waitress warn that I already ordered a little bit too much food and I need to leave some space for the next course. The “Carpaccio de Pulpo” was pure heaven, seasoned with the right type and amount of spices to let the overpowering flavour of the octopus to get the right touch of my palate.

A piece of advice: avoid the bred. Is so fresh, tasty and, even, cute that you will finish the basket before the food arrives at your table!

For the main course, we opted for two traditional Cuban dishes: “Camarones a la criolla” and “Ropa Vieja” and taking as sides banana chips and “Moros y Cristianos”. Thinking back, I am sure that the sides we choose can be a perfect lunch. I still don’t know how in Cuba they manage to make those amazing banana chips – they are crunchy with a delicious twist salty-sweet. “Moros y Cristianos” is a famous Cuban dish served at virtually every Cuban restaurant. It is the Cuban version of rice and beans: “Moors” refers to the black beans, and “Christians” to the white rice. The name of the dish is a reference to the Islamic invasion (early 8th century) of Spain and subsequent Reconquista (15th century) in which Spanish Christians were able to force the Islamic invaders back into Africa. In Spanish (and later Cuban tradition) it is to remind people of the years of oppression under Islamic rule. Just forget about  political correctness and enjoy it.

Ropa Vieja is one of the national dishes of Cuba, consisting of stewed beef with vegetables. It originates from a Sephardic dish from the Middle Ages. The version served in Habana61 was perfectly done and seasoned and the portion was quite generous without being overwhelming. Camarones a la criolla (Shrimp in Cuban Creole Sauce) is a tasty mix of shrimp and sweet tomato sauce served with or without rice. It is a quick and fail safe dish because they don’t use in Habana61 a lot of seasonings or spices, giving you the chance to enjoy the taste and texture of the shrimps. Absolutely divine!

To end our meal, we needed again the help of our charming and efficient waitress. And she decided for us to try for dessert one of the most extraordinary dishes I’ve ever had: “Casquitos de guyaba con queso cremoso y sopita de hierba buena” – a very light dessert mixing the sweet flavour of a ½ of a guava with the smooth texture and salty taste of a creamy cheese filling all on the right amount of powerful mint sauce. What a celebration!

The staff knew how to keep a very comfortable balance between being friendly and being efficient and nothing was over the top, like in most touristic places, giving you the chance to enjoy the explosion of flavours on the table.

The drink list was impressive too with decent prices. But as all the wine were imported from Spain, I decided to have local beer (Bucanero) even if my choice will choice will horripilate the gourmands among my friends.

Believe or not the last surprise arrived with the bill at the end of our evening in Habana61. For the gastronomic festin with beers and Mojitos only 37CUC which is more or less £30.WOW!

Great service, from start to finish, and a memorable evening.

Thank you Habana61!

 HABANA61

CALLE HABANA NO.61, E/ CUARTELES Y PEÑA POBRE. LA HABANA, CUBA

+ 53 7 8016433

RESERVATION@PALADARHABANA61.COM

Posted in TRAVELER'S NOTES

A REVIEW OF MELIÁ GENOVA Hotel

A cruise is an event doesn’t matter if you are a first timer or a experienced cruiser and all the time the embarkation day can set the mood for the days to come.

In my experience, not all the time the departure date match the best option in travel: price of the tickets, time of arrival in the port or time frame arrival-embarkation-departure. Therefore, couple of times I choose to arrive one day earlier than the embarkation and spend the night in the first port of the cruise. I know that some try to save on spending for a hotel room by flying in the morning of their cruise’s departure, but is it worth the stress of facing a delay should one occur? Padding your cruise with a day or two spent in port not only adds to the overall cruise experience with a land portion, but it takes the painstaking race against time — and potentially missing the ship — out of the vacation equation

That was my situation in January this year when I was sailing on MSC Splendida, from Genova, around Mediterranean Sea. I decided to spend 2 nights in the hub of MSC, the Liguria capital, Genoa. After searching different websites and reading the reviews I decided for Melia Genova, a 5-star hotel, part of the well-known MELIÁ HOTELS INTERNATIONAL.

The chain has a strong reputation, with some “ups and downs” but I can’t recommend the one in Genova highly enough.

MELIA GENOA has a central location ideal for both business and leisure, on Via Corsica, a quiet tree-lined road with magnificent architectural surroundings. Is very near the Palazzo Ducale, Carlo Felice theatre, San Lorenzo Cathedral, and Aquarium. If you take a taxi from the airport the fare will not be more than 35 Euros and to walk in to town will takes no more than 20 minutes. Actually, the location gives you the possibility to discover the charm of old city if you walk from the hotel to the Aquarium for example (leisurely walk approx. 30 minutes)

I decided for my booking a Junior suite on the 6^th floor. Sure, it’s not cheap but has the wow factor. My suite at the Meliá Genoa was spacious, around 32 metres squared, providing a relaxing lounge area, comfortable furniture and pleasant lighting from its three windows with panoramic view. It is, with no doubts, the perfect choice for guests seeking greater space for greater comfort and charm. Decorated with a combination of the best of classic and contemporary styles with luxurious details to ensure a wonderful stay, some bits still need some polish (chipped furniture well hidden, Nespresso coffee machine didn’t work, lamps on the terrace didn’t work in the first night). But once again Melia Genoa was an excellent choice.

The terrace was impressive with excellent views of the town, very quiet and HUGE. Perfect place to watch the New Year fireworks over the sea and city.

The bathroom, with separate shower, bathtub and toilet has an interesting and spacious layout. I was very excited to find a TV screen in the bathroom mirror. And to not forget: i was very impressed with the bathroom amenities which are Loewe – a Spanish luxury fashion brand founded in 1846. That is what I call “a little touch of luxury”

The public areas are warm and welcoming due to a very inspired mixture of modern and traditional deco elements. The historical building was designed by Giuseppe Crosa di Vergagni in 1929, a Genoese architect of noble birth who also designed the fountain in the Piazza de Ferrari and other historical palaces in Genoa. It is a beautiful designer hotel, with a fascinating yet warm atmosphere that makes guests feel entirely at home.

The breakfast is served every morning in MAREA RESTAURANT, a cosy place matching the modern line of the rest of the hotel. Breakfast buffet was very good with lots of choices and healthy options but I have to say the service a bit slow and hectic, with the staff coping very well with a high number of guests arriving at the same time.

BLUE LOUNGE BAR, decorated in silver, platinum and titanium tones with an elegant yet informal setting is pleasant at any hour of the day. The lounge has an a la carte menu including innovative and genuine regional and Mediterranean cuisine and a wide selection of Italian wines from the best bodegas. Don’t miss the excellent Mojito and Cosmopolitan and the scrumptious “Tiramisu Meliá”

In the basement, the hotel has a cosy gym and a charming pool. I didn’t mind the size of both and I found a good idea to keep the facilities only for the guests: no risk to share the space with locals doing their training for the next Olympics like in other chain hotels. Perfect place to relax!

On top of the incredible attention to details and the real feel of comfort and luxury, what really made my experience unique, especially for a chain hotel, was Melia Genova staff. Everything became obsolete in front of this incredible totally professional and extremely friendly staff. Beginning from the Bellboy and room stewardess and ending with Reception and Concierge were all very correct, polite, quick to respond to any request and with a permanent genuine smile. And it’s not that there are no criticism points, but they became insignificant compared to the perfect job the that staff has do or has done. Couple of malfunctions in the room were solved in a timely manner, when asked about museums and aquarium opening time we were offered to buy “skip the line” tickets and the restaurant recommendations from the reception were based on real experience and not prices or “copy paste” information. Absolutely incredible customer service!

Bottom line: Melia Genova (https://www.melia.com/en/hotels/italy/genoa/melia-genova/index.html)  is THE option if you decide to stay the night before your cruise in Genova. At the end of the day even a flight that arrives the morning of could put you in line behind others waiting at the cruise terminal to get on the ship. Arriving at the ship nice and early — harder to guarantee with a flight — can mean making the most of that very first day of your cruise. Take time to orientate yourself with the ship’s layout, drop your bags, start sunning by the pool, grab a bite to eat and take a deep breath as you settle into your holiday bliss. And Melia Genova offers you a perfect start of your cruise in a real charming cosy boutique hotel in the heart of Genoa.

Posted in TRAVELER'S NOTES

Best kept secrets from a Lower Danube Cruise

Travelling from Bucharest, Romania to Budapest, Hungary is not a simple cruise, a touristic product created for everybody, is a jump in time and space in a world hidden for so many years behind the Iron Curtain. Is an amazing journey in a land were “normal” for western travellers tend to be “exceptional” for locals and “local daily life” is an “experience” for most of us. Everything in a space where the peace and calm of the landscape hide centuries of agitated history.

If, you, traveller, decide to discover the beauty, the history and the culture of this part of Europe during your Lower Danube cruise, some tips can reveal hidden gems of the itinerary and create memories for a lifetime

BUCHAREST

If you start your journey with some free time in Bucharest don’t hesitate to jump in a taxi and after a 20 minutes ride discover in the outskirts of Romanian capital the quintessence of the Romanian Renaissance style or Brâncovenesc style. The architectural gem was built between 1698-1702 by Constantin Brâncoveanu just before the Romanian ruler was executed with his entire family in Constantinople by the Ottomans. Spending couple of hours in the palace and in the beautiful gardens will give anyone the chance to discover the bitterness of medieval, modern and contemporary Romanian history.

One evening is a good idea to discover in the heart of Bucharest a traditional Romanian restaurant (my favourite is VATRA, located minutes away from the old city, on Brezoianu street) and indulge yourself in a typical Romanian feast. A “must have” are sarmale . There is no Romanian traditional meal without Sarmale. Usually prepared during winter time and Christmas holidays, Sarmale is a dish made of rolled minced meat (pork usually) mixed with rice and herbs and covered in cabbage leaves. It is usually accompanied by Mamaliga (or Mamaliguta) – polenta made of boiled corn flour, as well as by hot peppers and sour cream. The cabbage used is in fact sauerkraut (pickled cabbage), which gives a particular taste to the dish.  The meat must be quite fatty; sometimes pork greaves are added to increase the taste.

If you decided to try a full day trip to the Black Sea and you will visit the city of Constanta take some time and admire the beautiful Art Nouveau Casino. Once considered to be the country’s very own Monte Carlo, abandoned remains are now all that’s left of Romania’s majestic Casino Constanta. Perched on a cliffside overlooking the Black Sea, the impressive structure’s art deco shapes and details are still intact despite having shuttered decades ago. The Casino is challenging your imagination step by step, with every ornament, every broken mirror, and every crack in the wall producing an emotional roller coaster outlined by the magnificent view of the sea. What used to be the main social and cultural attraction of the city in the past today is lying in despair, completely neglected like a true old man celebrating alone his 100th anniversary. There is a legend saying that Constanta Casino was built by a navigator who had a girl. She died young at 17 years old. Then, her father decided to built the Casino for young people to share moments that his daughter couldn’t. If you look from the top, the casino supposed to look like a hearse and the windows like graves. Legend says that during the summer, those who lost gambling were jumping in the waves of the Black Sea. This explains the autumn and winter storms started in the seafront.

ROUSSE

Your day in the Bulgarian city of Rousse will take you for sure to Veliko Tarnovo. During the period of the Second Bulgarian Kingdom, from the year 1185 to 1395, Bulgaria was the largest and the most powerful state in Southeastern Europe, and Tsarevets Hill was the main fortress of the medieval capital – Veliko Tarnovo. Gossip had it that a secret tunnel underneath the palace kept seven stone tubs full of gold, precious stones and jewelry. Three crowns and a scepter, symbols of statehood, as well as a Christian cross, were laid on a marble table in the crypt. This legend speaks of the relentless popular faith that the Bulgarian Christian state would resurrect after the Ottoman conquest.

A short ride from the city will take you to the village of Arbanasi with breathtaking views towards Veliko Tarnovo and Aegean air which, according to a local urban legend, arrives here after crossing thousands of kilometres and two mountain ranges. Built in the time of greatest prosperity, in the 16-18th centuries, Arbanasi was home to 1,000 households and 11 priests. Take some time to discover incredible churches heavily painted, tiny, dark, squat spaces, whose walls are covered with naive frescoes of strangely charming religious scenes and portraits of benefactors. The detailing and the state of preservation are astonishing, and you can gaze at these centuries-old faces for hours, until you feel light-headed. The most spectacular of the six Arbanasi churches is the Rozhdestvo Hristovo, or Nativity church. From the outside, the 17-18th Century bare stone walls of the church do not reveal anything of the splendid colours, figures and religious drama that await you inside. Separated into several sections, including one for women, the church is a claustrophobic maze of low ceilings and thick walls. Each room of the interior is covered with scenes from the Old Testament mingled with solemn saints and poignant episodes from the Gospels, with a particularly descriptive mural of the Last Judgement.

And for lunch try my favourite spot – Restaurant Isvora – The Spring (Opalchenska street) where the Bulgarian hospitality is at its best and the famous Shopska salad (the traditional cold salad made from tomatoes, cucumbers, onion/scallions, raw or roasted peppers, white brine cheese and parsley) is huge.

VIDIN

A stop in Vidin will take you to Belogradchik  Rocks and Fortress – a group of strange shaped sandstone and conglomerate rock formations located on the western slopes of the Balkan Mountains. The fortress’s walls are over 2 metres (6.6 ft) thick in the foundation and reaching up to 12 m (39 ft) in height. Three separate fortified yards exist that are connected with each other through gates on a total area of 10,210 square metres (109,900 sq ft).

If you go close to the rocks at twilight and just listen for a while, you will hear the cry of a cuckoo. It is the Cuckoo rock calling. The rock truly produces the same sound as the bird and for this reason people gave its name. Is this only a play of the wind or the Cuckoo rock tells the story of the nearby Horseman, Madonna and Nunnery rocks, no one can tell for sure. The legend tells that the rocks are connected. The Horseman’s name was Anton (Anthony). He was a poor shepherd. The Madonna (the lady with child in hands) bore the name of Vitinya. She was very beautiful and belonged to a rich family. The two of them fell in love, but Vitinya’s father didn’t allow them to marry and sent his daughter into the Nunnery on the mountain’s slope. Nevertheless, the two beloved continued to meet in secret and soon conceived a child. The nuns ousted Vitinya with her child and Anton came, riding a horse, and rescued them. In this moment a storm arose, one thunder stroke, the earth shook and everything around turned into stone! Only a cuckoo survived and flew out of the woods…

IRON GATES

The Iron Gates is a piece of a paradise between the Balkans and the European Union, in which is combined superior beauty of nature and traces of history that testify to its importance. The highest gorge in Europe shows the most beautiful face of the Danube River surrounded by mountains with Serbian and Romanian side of the border. There are no words enough to describe the beauty and the strength of this gorge: Iron Gates links four valleys and four gorges through which the Danube shows its changeable nature. Golubac gorge, Gospodjin Vir, Mali and Veliki Kazan are the gorges that are unified into one – the Iron Gate. Kazan is a place in the Djerdap Gorge in which the river seems to boil (as in boiling cauldron) because of the many vortices located in there. The deepest part of the Danube through the gorge is about 90 meters and it is the maximum recorded depth of a river in the world.

The gorges made transportation treacherous on this part of the Danube, so the Iron Gate Dam was constructed, starting in 1964 and ending in 1984. The water level is now 130 feet higher than before the dam was built. At least 7 towns were covered, the Turkish fortress island of Ada Kaleh was destroyed, and 23,000 people were relocated.Close to the Iron Gates Dam you have the unique chance to se the only place in the world where the flag of former Yugoslavia is still visible next to TITO’s name

The Europe’s largest monument in the wall is located in Djerdap Gorge. The monument is 40 meters high and it was built by powerful Romanian businessman Constantin Dragan who invested a fortune in the chiseling Decibel statue on the Romanian side of Djerdap gorge. It is said that he invested nearly two million dollars to the monument in which creation participated 12 carvers and several dozen of climbers. Its building lasted ten years, it was interrupted several times and it is very controversial. The most intrigued is the inscription on the monument: “Decebalus Rex Dragan Fecit” literally translated as Decibel ruled / or won but Dragan built. If you pay attention on the top of the statue you can see the cross – the legend says that a young couple jumped from the top of the monument because of their tragic love.

With a little bit of luck and good weather you will have the chance to see couple of caves on the Romanian side, each with interesting legends. One is Veteran’s Cave, from which Austrian soldiers once harassed Turkish shipping on the river. Another is Ponicova Cave. Romanians used it to attempt escapes from their communist rulers. A few succeeded to swim to Yugoslavia. Others were shot as they swam, and some made it across but were returned by the Yugoslav guards.

BELGRADE

Outspoken, adventurous, proud and audacious: Belgrade is by no means a ‘pretty’ capital, but its gritty exuberance makes it one of the most happening cities in Europe. While it hurtles towards a brighter future, its chaotic past unfolds before your eyes: socialist blocks are squeezed between art nouveau masterpieces, and remnants of the Habsburg legacy contrast with Ottoman relics. So many things to do, so many things to see.

Stop for a while and visit the charming Ružica Church and St. Petka Chapel. There have been several legends passed on as to the first Ružica Church, erected here during the rule of Serbian king Stefan Lazarević and destroyed by the Ottoman Turks in 1521.  One legend says that a knight, while tending to an injured maiden, found the water spring that still runs beneath the Saint Petka Chapel today. He used the healing water from the St. Petka Spring to nurse her back to health and she had a church built on the spot in gratitude. Another legend says that, around the same time, Serbian troops were surrounded and trapped in this spot without food or water. The miraculous spring appeared and enabled them to survive. Yet another legend says that three sisters, Ružica, Marica and Cveta, each erected a church here to show their devotion to Christ

Another stop, another exciting slice of Belgrade’s history: The Roman Well, located in the southwest part of the Upper Town within Kalemegdan fortress, though in truth the well really isn’t Roman, at all. More likely is that it was actually built in the 18th century by the Austrians and that the name could be connected to their ambition to be considered as the inheritors of the great Roman Empire, or as the holders of the title of the Holy Roman Emperor, a confusing title which came after the actual Roman empire and referred to the ruler of the Germanic lands. The notoriety of the ‘Roman Well’ comes from the many tales and legends of prisoners being thrown down the hole throughout the Belgrade history  and left to eat each other, rebels imprisoned by OZNA, Nazi treasure hunters whose bodies were never found, the communist secret service and a wife murdered by a jealous husband among many others. Alfred Hitchcock visited the well in 1964 and said that an environment like that is always a treat for him. The well is 51m deep (it’s bottom lies below the bottom of the nearby Sava river), with 3m in diameter and two spiral staircases that connect at the depth of about 35 meters forming a DNA-like shape. The water in the well is incredibly clean, and is home to an endemic species of tiny crab that lives only there.

If you really search for a thrilling experience a visit to the underground Belgrade is exactly what you need. Underground Belgrade has always attracted tremendous attention since it hides more than one hundred caves, canals, tunnels, passages and incredible stories. History of underground Belgrade is in connection to various empires and states that have ruled over ages in this area. Under Belgrade there are hundreds of cellars, caves, tunnels, bunkers and passageways, many of which have yet to be opened. Some archaeologists think that there are so many tunnels under Kalemegdan and Zemun that it would take decades to explore them all. The tour Underground Belgrade will take visitors to the Roman hall where lie foundation of the main gate of the Roman fortress and Roman aqueduct and they will hear stories about Tito’s (former president of Yugoslavia) political games and spy secrets from the time of Communist Information Bureau.

VUKOVAR

When you visit Vukovar today, it’s a challenge to visualise this town as it was before the war. A pretty place on the Danube, with roots stretching back to the 10th century and a series of elegant baroque mansions, it once bustled with art galleries and museums. All that changed with the siege of 1991, which destroyed its economy, culture, infrastructure, civic harmony and soul.

You can not miss Vukovar water tower – one of the most famous symbols of Vukovar and the suffering of both this heroic city and the country in the Battle of Vukovar and the Croatian War of Independence. The tower, just like the city itself, was largely destroyed by the Serbian forces was one of the most frequent targets of artillery hit more than 600 times during the siege

When you are in Vukovar you must find some time to visit the incredible Vukovar City Museum – Castle Eltz – founded in 1948 by a donation of Roman money, furniture, weapons, and paintings given to his city by Dr. Antun Bauer. The museum started in the Coach Post Building in the old baroque centre, but was moved to Castle Eltz in 1966. Up until 1991 the Museum had about 50 thousand exhibits in four separate divisions. To this day the collection has gathered over 1400 pieces of modern Croatian and European art. This collection represented the beginning of the cultural restoration of Vukovar and it is displayed at the restored Castle Eltz today, along with other museum collections which are part of the permanent collection of the Museum. Now that it is renovated, the Castle Eltz complex represents a unique museum and gallery, science, and multimedia centre, which preserves and presents cultural heritage as an element of national identity and the continuity of life in this area.

In 2013 the Vukovar City Museum won a prestigious Anton Štifanić Award for special contribution to the development of tourism in the Republic of Croatia and in 2014 won the Simply the Best award.

And if you are hungry try Burek – a family of baked filled pastries is made from layers of dough, alternating with layers of other fillings in a circular baking pan and then topped with a last layer of dough. Traditionally it may be baked with no filling (prazan), with stewed minced meat and onions, or with cheese. Modern bakeries offer cheese and spinach, apple, sour cherries, potato, mushroom and pizza-burek, as well.

KALOCSA

Kalocsa was founded as Esztergom in the 11C by Stephen I as a bishopric. Elevated to the status of an archbishopric, a cathedral was built here. Despite bouts of destruction and the town’s small size, its religious past justifies the presence of two important buildings in the centre: the Archbishop’s Palace and the Baroque cathedral. Beside the history and the famous chicos ( Hungarian horsemen) Kalocsa is the paradise of paprika.

Paprika is not simply a popular seasoning in Hungary, but it’s at the very core of Hungarian cuisine. It is used for its flavor and for its bright color in two varieties: édes or sweet and erős or hot/ spicy. Most households will have both for Hungarian dishes like goulash (gulyás, or gulyásleves: say goo-yaash), which is the flagship Hungarian dish (alas, slightly threatened by more modern and healthy cuisine trends). Growing paprika in the Kalocsa region (mid-southern part of Hungary) goes back to the 18th century, but industrial production only started in the 1920’s. Paprika became a popular part of cuisine in the 1780’s in Hungary. The technique of making sweet paprika was gradually developed in Hungary from the 1850’s by getting rid of the seeds and stems, only keeping the pods.

The Magyar horsemen were highly-skilled and greatly-feared in the 10th century when they raided deep into the heart of Europe.T he rapport and trust between horses and riders was obvious with the noble animals submitting to all manner of unhorsely  behaviour. The Magyar horse-riding circus celebrates the age-old art of animal husbandry endemic to these Eurasian steppes. Horses are trained to endure gunfire with loud ostor (whip) cracks and taught to lie prostrate in the fields of long wheat so their riders can lie in wait and spring an ambush, presumably against the regular Turkish invaders. Our heroic riders command eight horses, standing bareback on the last two, and hang on like speedway sidecar riders.

BUDAPEST

Straddling the Danube River, with the Buda Hills to the west and the Great Plain to the east, Budapest is a gem of a city. I love Budapest for all the right reasons – architecture (especially Art Nouveau), romance (particularly the views from the bridges) and sticky apricot jam – and some of the wrong ones, too (killer pálinka (fruit brandy), and being lazy in the Turkish baths). Budapest’s beauty is not all God given; humankind has played a role in shaping this pretty face too. Architecturally, the city is a treasure trove, with enough baroque, neoclassical, Eclectic and Art Nouveau (or Secessionist) buildings to satisfy everyone. Overall, though, Budapest has a fin-de-siècle feel to it, for it was then, during the capital’s ‘golden age’ in the late 19th century, that most of what you see today was built.

A unique experience is a drink in the always-popular Ruin Pubs remain the most unique part of Budapest’s entertainment scene. A must on every visitor’s to-do list, these pubs, located in formerly abandoned buildings, have a great atmosphere any time of the day. Ruin Pubs (‘rom kocsma’ in Hungarian, literally: pub in a ruin) are located in formerly abandoned buildings in the city and are very popular hot spots. Most are open year-round, some are temporary outdoor pubs, open from May to September and some are located in the cellars of old houses. Live music with the best Hungarian bands, charming retro décor, unique atmosphere and late opening hours make these places perfect for party. Ruin Pubs certainly represent a new wave of entertainment in Budapest. The trend started about 10 years ago and although some places come and go or change ownership; you will always find a Ruin Pub that’s popular

Home to some 40 statues, busts and plaques of Lenin, Marx, Béla Kun and others whose likenesses have ended up on trash heaps elsewhere in the former-socialist world, Memento Park, 10km southwest of the city centre, is a mind-blowing place to visit. Ogle the socialist realism and try to imagine that at least four of these relics were erected as recently as the late 1980s. Newer attractions are the replicated remains of Stalin’s boots – all that was left after a crowd pulled the enormous statue down from its plinth on XIV Dózsa György út during the 1956 Uprising – and an exhibition centre in an old barracks with displays about the events of 1956 and the changes since 1989, and a documentary film with rare footage showing secret agents collecting information on ‘subversives’.

Of course, there are so many things to discover, to see or the learn in a journey on Lower Danube! You can try it for yourself.

VIKING LIF operates in 2017 “Passage to Eastern Europe” – Sail to lands rich in traditions: see Bucharest’s 3,000-room Palace of Parliament. Make banitsa bread with a home cook in Vidin. Explore Belgrade’s Ottoman and European treasures, including 6th-century Kalemegdan Fortress. View the Danube’s towering Iron Gate. Visit a Croatian family’s Osijek home. Witness Hungary’s daredevil Puszta horsemen. Behold Budapest’s grandeur. Once hidden behind the Iron Curtain, the eastern Danube still has secrets to reveal on a 11-day cruisetour from Bucharest to Budapest/ Budapest to Bucharest

Visit http://www.vikingrivercruises.co.uk/ for more information and special deals.

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